Hello Friends,
I think the best place for me to start is when I split ways with the rest of the group in Tofo, Mozambique. It was a bitter sweet time where everyone was sad they were leaving and I was bummed because I was far away from my puppies, family, and friends. Our group of Mesa State College Travelers was coming to an end. After each of us took a turn reflecting on where we began and where we are now, I realized I had a group of lifelong friends sitting all around me. We shared experiences like swimming with Great Whites, jumping off the edge of the earth, exploring the mighty Zambezi River, and waltzing down Bree Street in downtown Johannesburg. The lessons we all learned have been an important memory to reflect upon as I continue my journey. It’s hard not to drift back to holding a Stay Positive banner under the water at Mike’s Cupboard in the Indian Ocean with Joel. Or charging down Upper Moemba Falls as the last thing Heidi, Sarah, Conner, Chad and I did in 2010. Then there was picking up a robot named Kenny and dropping him off to kids in Mwandi, Zambia who had no idea that Joel was controlling Kenny with a remote. Back to sitting at Blue Mountain Backpackers with Nick, Joel, Kenney, and Conner until 5:00 a.m. entertained by one street corner. Also the glorious smoked salmon, cheese, crackers, and wine with Mark and Annie. We also had the precarious swim above Victoria Falls where Justin chose to walk against current rather than swim. Times in Africa that seemed to go by so slow and, yet flew by so quickly. Good times!
That leads me to January 18th 2011 the first night I got to spend away from one more comfort zone. I stayed in Tofu, Mozambique one more day just to settle in because my nerves would not calm down and there was a full moon party at Dino’s Beach Bar that night. I’ve always been a sucker for a party. It was a great decision that convinced me to stay in Tofu for another four days when I went to sleep. Some new friends woke up to go scuba diving and I decided to be on my way even though it was very hard to leave such a paradise behind. Next stop Villancullos by Chapa. Anyone who has traveled has some terrifying public transportation story. All stories are interesting whether the story had to do with the driving, the bus being over crowded, or the smells that dance in your nostrils. Sometimes if you are lucky you get all three in one and that explains a Chapa. I got in a screaming match with a driver who only spoke Portugese and all I could think to yell back was “loud noises!” He felt I had to pay for two people because my bag was so big, yet he didn’t charge any locals even if they brought three bags that size. Well assertiveness paid off because I at least got a lower rate for raising my voice back. The transfer in pace from a beach paradise to overland travel up the Mozambique coast was shocking to say the very least, and the addition of being alone for the first time wasn’t much of a comfort.” Stay Positive Michael”, I kept telling myself. Positive is the way things went to, I ended up in a paradise much like the one I just left at a hostel called Baobab Beach Backpackers. This was the first place I realized that I enjoy a slow pace while traveling. I am not going to continue writing everything that happened day by day because frankly I don’t have that much time. I will touch on the high points and some of the low as well that happen along the way.
January 20th 2011 was my very first death march. A death march includes the basic day bag loaded with a camera and if I’m lucky a map and then a sprint as far across the town as I can go. In Villanculos I got to play football with locals with jerseys and everything. That was a wonderful experience that left me humbled, tired, and happy. After that I found my way to a primary school where the school children and I played hacky sack for a long enough time for my cheeks to hurt from smiling. I never knew so many great things could happen if you just step out with an open mind and no itinerary. After my six hour death march I ate at this beautiful little beach restaurant that gave me the best fish I have ever had and I don’t even know the name of it. When I sat down for the two hour wait, that is common when out for food, it gave me time to breathe and think. Often the only thought that runs through my head is holy shit I’m in Africa! At that moment I sat with my lonely planet and realized I can go and do whatever I want. It is a free feeling even if terrifying at times. Next stop Chomoio, Mozambique!
January 21st 2011. Well in many real life dreams there comes a reality check at one time or another. I was not expecting mine to come so early in my wandering, but when can you ever really see it coming? After an eight hour bus ride I hopped into the last seat of a chapa not wanting to wait for the next one to fill. The ride was pretty hard but better than most. I got off in Chomoio and just wanted a cold beer and a shower really bad. I was a bit grumpy. My mood was not helped by a young man who thought it would be helpful to grab my bag and take off with it. Grumpy survival instincts took over and I chased him down knocking my bag off of his head. Instantly I was face to face with four guys all shoving trying to get to my bag and be the one to help me for a fee. I had to physically push them away to get enough space to get my bag on. About this time I was shocked to feel a hand inside my wallet pocket with both of MY hands busy. Helpful hint; if you are surrounded by guys that all work together and you catch one in your pocket do not react with violence. My grumpy survival instincts decided to throw an elbow in the direction of the thief. The worst part is that it landed square on the nose of the guy digging for gold. Before I knew it there was four guys on me, but with a pack in front and in back and a chapa to the other side only my ribs could be reached. Locals saw what was going on and ended a fiasco that started in one second and thanks to them ended in five. Needless to say I was a little shook up and after a short thank you I hurried off to the Pink Papaya Hostel with great haste. There I was greeted by a very motherly old German lady who helped me with my bags and got me that cold beer I wanted so bad. I drank it, smoked three cigarettes, grabbed my day bag, and went straight back to the scene knowing that if I didn’t do it now it would be exponentially harder the longer I waited. In the midst of chaos in the middle of the downtown market I was able to calm down and realize that I didn’t lose a single thing and everything is okay. Next stop out of Mozambique!
Crossing borders always seems to be a stressful process to me. The interesting thing about the border between Malawai and Mozambique is the border is almost 30 km wide. This creates a monopoly for the local taxi drivers allowing them to charge a good sum of money to get through. Other than that the trip went relatively smooth. In Africa there is no such thing as an isle in a bus. From the front to the back and side to side there are seats. I was the lucky guy to ride very center front with the second guy I’ve met in Africa that is taller than me. At first I mumbled and grumbled a little bit, but then the seat ended up turning into a blessing. Our bus driver continuously was dozing off for little cat naps and swaying the bus from side to side. I got to be the annoying American that kept poking him in the side. At times that seemed more dangerous than just letting him sleep drive. It is all fun and games in the journey of overland travel. After thirteen hours of various cramps and poking fights I arrived in Blantyre Malawai surrounded by beautiful mountains and the most luscious green forests my eyes have seen. I stayed at a lodge called Dooglas Backpackers Lodge and it was neighbors with the bus station. Convenient. After the long trek to Malawai the sight of a clean pool, rocking bar scene, and the best pool table in Africa was very welcoming. They also had very fast internet. It was the kind of place you walk into and think I could spend a lot of time here.
With a fun bar the choice to sleep in is often made for you with good times often stretching past sunrise. So after I slept in I woke up in my hammock style tent read a few chapters in my book and then thought, I wonder what I can find in Blankyre. Death march number two away! I took off with a very basic map, of what I found to be a very large city, and the adventure possibilities seemed endless. I saw a few churches and some very beautiful gardens along the way to a very cool resturaunt called TJ’s pub and grill. The pure bliss of just walking around was a feeling I hope and pray to have even one more time. I was so happy sitting in the garden at TJ’s reading and writing in my journal that I had to take pictures just to remind me of how happy that time was. They also served me the most enjoyable chicken burger I think I’ve ever had. Travel is full of such drastic highs and lows it is overwhelming. After the happiest meal I’ve ever had alone I picked out a school area for my next stop. It was a good choice because I got the opportunity to read Cat in the Hat books to a group of twenty plus orphans. I think I was having more fun than them because I got really into reading those books. After we got to play football and their energy and the purity of their smiles will be in the top of my list for best moments in Africa. Hey and if you ever stop in Blankyre you have to see their market! It is beautiful and central so it is an easy walk from anywhere. No way in hell being hung over will ever stop me from the great experiences of the death march. Later that night I had my very first experience with Skype. How freaking cool is that thing. Talk to friends and family from around the world for dirt cheap, I’m in for sure. I was so excited about it that I forgot to pack my things and ended up thinking I’ll do it in the morning.
So 5:00 am roles around and yep the packing didn’t happen. There is a blessing as well as a curse of traveling alone. The blessing is there is no where you have to be at any certain time. The curse is at times it is very hard to motivate yourself. A mantra for this is an old saying. The grass is always greener on the other side. All in all there is absolutely nothing wrong with having a day where you do nothing but read a good book, surf the net, and catch up on journaling. So no regrets eh?
So I started the day planning to head to Liwonde National Park with maybe a short stop in Komba for some hiking. The problem is I ran into an Ausie named Dan. Dan was the man and he was headed to Cape Maclear on Lake Malawai. So a last minute jumble and all my plans change. I don’t know what I missed, but I am pretty sure I’ll find plenty to do in Cape Maclear. The bus ride was flawless all except for the fact that I spent more money on snacks than I did on the ticket. We arrived in Cape Maclear just as the sun was setting and whoa what a welcoming comitee that was. There had just been a large storm so the sun cast a brilliant display in color and depth of yet another paradise. It is now very slow season for tourism ravel. Quite different from the start of the trip going into Christmas and New Years. I was pretty much all alone except for three wonderful Swedish ladies who were getting there open water certification. Life is good relaxed and slow. I could get used to this.
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